For over fifteen years, Doña Tomás has been a culinary institution in the East Bay and beyond, churning up outstanding Mexican cuisine from their location on Telegraph Avenue (soon to move over to Piedmont Avenue). The love of the well-curated, thoughtful, and classic food soon led to the establishment of Tacubaya, a casual, counter style taqueria of the same owners, residing on 4th Street in Berkeley. We chatted with Dona Savitsky herself to learn more about her relationship with culture, cuisine, and community.
“When my former business partner Tom Schnetz and I first started planning Doña Tomás twenty years ago, we were really thinking of something more like Tacubaya, but it ended up evolving into a more fine dining table service restaurant,” explained Savitsky. “Tacubaya was our chance to do a more casual but upscale taqueria like we originally envisioned for Doña Tomás. We wanted to serve the same high quality food (with utmost attention to detail) but serve it casually and all day long- with breakfast served every day.”
Since then, the taqueria has taken off in a big way, constantly flooded with famished locals spending a lazy afternoon on the shops of 4th Street. All the heart and soul of Doña Tomás is there, albeit in a brighter, more casual regard. The art on the walls, the authentic touches of silverware served in tin cans, and the colorful table numbers all lend to the vibe of this established, unforgettable spot.
As for the food itself, it’s comforting and unforgettable as well. Savitsky was intent on curating a menu that was authentic to traditional Mexican cuisine, full of go-to dishes that customers would come back for again and again. Her personal favorite dish is one that remained a “secret” for years, though now it is officially highlighted on the daily menu.
The “secret” sope with an egg on top is my favorite!” she admitted. “It’s more unusual fare – a large round masa cake, topped with pureed black beans and fried potatoes tossed in chorizo and garnished with julienned pickled vegetables, crema and queso fresco and finished with an egg over easy. For years, it was a “secret menu” item to add the egg, but now it is on the main menu.”
As for customers, they can’t get enough of the chilaquiles, and for good reason.
“Although that’s my personal favorite, the most popular dish amongst our customers is the chilaquiles,” she disclosed. “And I think we do it the best [at Tacubaya]…even better than at Doña Tomás.”
Aside from the menu itself, we wanted to know what the desired culture of Tacubaya was from the inside. Savitsky is a bit of a genius at creating restaurants with an undeniable sense of place; the kind of spot you return to with family members for everyday meals, special occasions, Sunday night dinners, and everything in between. Now, with Tacubaya’s expansion and full bar, the taqueria has grown even more fully into that space.
“I feel like Tacubaya has evolved since we moved next door and acquired a full liquor license. We grew up a little, but still offer a format where you can stop in to have a quick snack or a full meal,” she said. “With a full liquor license, we are also able to offer our customers the option of stopping in for happy hour, or having a margarita or other cocktail with their meal.”
Looking towards the future, Savitsky knows how to toe the line between evolving and established. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is an appropriate mantra here; her restaurants are places we revel in the perfect sameness, the comfort we can sink back into each time we return.
“We don’t change much because our customers love the way it is!” she affirmed. “But of course, I am constantly inspired by frequent trips to Mexico where I eat and explore!”
// Try the “secret” sope and much, much more at Tacubaya, located at 1782 Fourth St, Berkeley, CA 94710; tacubya.net; photo courtesy of Tacubaya.
